A visit to Hudson, New York, the "antiques capital of the Northeast."
“A vital part of viewing Hudson is the ability to look up,” wrote City Historian Jean Brice McMullin in “Hudson Revisited,” published in 1985. “There are period brackets to be seen, unexpected ornamentation, the names of former firms, and evidences of structural changes. It is well worth the effort.”
Exploring this city on the eastern bend of the Hudson River about 120 miles north of New York City often means arching your neck to see and appreciate graceful spires rising in the air, Victorian towers and turrets, cornices and columns, and many other interesting structural details. Twenty years ago, who would have guessed that this sleepy little town, often referred to as a dictionary of American architectural styles, would reinvent itself as an exciting tourist and weekend destination while attracting lovers of art, architecture, history and culture from nearby areas like Manhattan and Boston. Hudson also positioned itself as the unofficial “Antiques Capital” in the northeast corridor.
Warren Street is still the heart of the city where I was born. This is a seven block long stretch that begins uptown at the city park, and runs straight down to the Hudson River, ending at the Promenade Hill area. To drive this long straight stretch of road, lined with a veritable treasure of American architecture in various stages of restoration, is like being transported to an earlier era, when “The Proprietors,” the founding fathers of Hudson, lived and worked here.
Most of the stores I recall from my youth, like the five and dime store Newberry’s, Woolworth’s, The Town Fair, and the old Marsh’s department store, have been replaced by upscale businesses, exclusive galleries, and pricey antique stores. To my amazement, small town Hudson is suddenly...hip, drawing crowds of weekenders and tourists to the annual “ArtsWalk” festival in October and “Winter Walk on Warren Street” in December.
This new Hudson has flair, a sense of humor, a point of view, and a sophisticated cosmopolitan vibe which is punctuated by touches of small town whimsy. There have been updates and changes; however, Hudson still lives up to its official nickname, “The Friendly City.” Accessible from Manhattan by nearby Amtrak, this is a city that can easily be walked, and part of the fun of Hudson is strolling up and down Warren Street.
The Hudson Opera House, (327 Warren Street; hudsonoperahouse.org), at the center of the arts scene in Hudson, is a must see for lovers of architecture and history. Built in 1855 as Hudson’s first City Hall, the Opera House is a multi-arts cultural and civic center, offering theater and dance presentations, concerts, readings, exhibitions, lectures, workshops and after-school programs (most of the programs are free, and some are at a very low cost of $3-$12.) Notice the handsome brick facade crowned by a pediment, a detail of Greek Revival architecture. The first floor Center Hall Gallery is lined with works of art.
The Opera House is open every day from 12 to 5 p.m., and tours are free. The West Room, another exhibition space, has interesting period details like an old bank vault, thirteen foot tin ceilings, and marble and wood wainscoting. This room is also a multi-use space for exhibitions, performances, lectures and meetings; on display are photographs, drawings, objects and reproductions relating to the Opera House’s history. Experiencing this richly historic space, and viewing the exhibit, is like traveling back in time to a more gracious age. A photo of “Aunt Dinah’s Quilting Party”, a musical presented in 1919 in the old second floor theater space, was particularly fascinating.
The cavernous auditorium on the second floor, awaiting restoration, has a certain faded glory. There are signs of decay and fire damage but the stage, despite its disrepair, is still reminiscent of those grand, ornate theaters from the Gilded Age. I can almost hear the voice of Marietta “Madam” Gazzaniga, the renowned soprano who gave a well received operatic performance here on a summer evening back in 1866.
The golden age may be gone, but music can still be heard at the Opera House. Cabaret singer Maude Maggart performed at the Gifford gala, and Hudson’s professional opera company the Diamond Opera Theater (diamondoperatheater.org) offers a rich variety of musical performances.
It’s hard to believe that this historic building was vacant for thirty years, and once faced demolition. While the first floor of the building had various uses over the years, such as the Post Office, Police Station, and Common Council, the upstairs auditorium held traveling lectures and musical and theatrical events. It also served as a space for community groups to hold local functions. When City Hall moved up the street in 1962, and the Opera House was sold to a developer, the vacant space began its long, thirty year decline.
In 1992, a group of local citizens formed the non-profit Hudson Opera House, Inc. to save and restore the building. Since then, much of the first floor space has been alive with arts and culture, and there are plans to restore the second floor auditorium.
The rebirth of the Hudson Opera House is but one chapter in Hudson’s varied history. Founded in 1783, Hudson has seen many changes over the years since its origins as a whaling and merchant seaport. In the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century, prosperous trade led to an architectural boom in Hudson, with the construction of many different styles of residences and commercial buildings along the city’s main area, Warren Street.
By the early to mid twentieth century, the city was in decline due to an economic downturn and Hudson experienced a lawless era, rife with prostitution, corruption and gambling. This period is immortalized in Bruce Edward Hall’s colorful book, “Diamond Street: The Story of the Little Town with the Big Red Light District.”
Fortunately, in the late eighties, a visionary group of artists, intellectuals, and antique dealers saw Hudson as a diamond in the rough. They brought new life into the dying city by opening a growing number of antique stores in the boarded up old buildings on Warren Street. Reaching its peak in the mid nineties, Hudson still enjoys a national reputation as an antiques center; however, these days the antiques trade is nicely balanced by fine restaurants, upscale clothing and furniture stores, and a variety of arts and cultural attractions.
Other performance venues worth visiting in Hudson include Time & Space Limited for art, theater, and film (434 Columbia Street; timeandspace.org), and Stageworks/Hudson (41-A Cross Street; stageworkstheater.org), Hudson’s only professional Equity theater.
In 2004, Stageworks acquired an unused 40,000 square foot warehouse, previously the Kaz manufacturing plant, converting it into a performance space. Over one hundred years old, the brick building is said to have originally been used for candlestick making, then later a fly-paper factory. Time & Space Limited was formerly a bakery. These theaters are examples of the creative use of old or abandoned industrial spaces, a hallmark of Hudson’s revitalization.
While Hudson has a growing reputation for excellent live performances, it is already well known for its many art galleries that line Warren Street, featuring an array of paintings, drawings, sculpture and photographs. Peter Jung Fine Art (512 Warren Street; peterjungfineart.com) offers nineteenth and twentieth century European and American paintings; however, Hudson is also noted for its contemporary art galleries, such as Carrie Haddad Gallery (622 Warren Street; carriehaddadgallery.com). Haddad was one of the first dealers to open on Warren Street in 1991, and her gallery was voted “Best Gallery of Contemporary Art in the Hudson Valley” by Hudson Valley Magazine.
Near the Opera House, the 300 block of Warren Street is full of galleries, including Deborah Davis Fine Art (345 Warren Street), Hudson Untitled Foundation (330 and 336 Warren Street), and Hudson Valley Arts Center (337 Warren Street; fncraft.com.) The Columbia County Council on the Arts (CCCA) exhibits the work of its member artists at the CCCA Gallery (209 Warren Street; artscolumbia.org.)
CCCA also presents the annual “ArtsWalk” festival, a ten day celebration of painting, sculpture, photography, music, theater and dance, held during the first week of October throughout the city of Hudson. The popular festival attracts over 6,000 visitors, and the city buzzes with activity. Some of the many attractions include fiber art, textiles and print making, videos and cutting edge art installations. Shop windows along Warren Street are lined with exhibits, and sidewalk art is on display.
One of the ArtsWalk venues is the Pocketbook Factory (6th Street, between Washington and Prospect Streets), another example of how the city is renovating its old industrial buildings into artistic spaces. At this former pocketbook factory, 25,000 square feet is being converted into exhibition space, and three floors of the factory are used during ArtsWalk to showcase the work of artists. Owner Eleanor Ambos plans to convert part of the enormous factory for film and photos shoots, weddings, and special events.
Another festival that attracts visitors to Hudson is the yearly “Winter Walk on Warren Street.” This event, a holiday tradition, is held from 5 to 8 p.m. on the first Saturday in December. On that evening, Hudson is transported back in time to the nineteenth century with horse drawn carriage rides up and down Warren Street, and strolling Victorian carolers. Presented by the Hudson Opera House, Winter Walk draws over 9,000 visitors to see attractions like live reindeer, a Santa Parade, magicians, jesters, and a stilt walker. Many local businesses adorn themselves to the hilt with holiday decorations, remaining open that evening to welcome visitors. Store windows along Warren Street come alive with dancers, storytellers, and musicians.
Many unexpected sights are likely to bring attention. For example, a small Greek Revival style farmhouse awaits visitors at The Secret Gardener (250 Warren Street), a horticulture center and flower shop.
Hudson (and the Hudson Opera House) was a part of The Victorian Society in America’s Fall 2005/06 study tour of the Mid-Hudson Valley. After experiencing the mile long stretch of Warren Street, walk to Allen Street, East Allen Street, or Willard Place to see elegant, beautifully restored Victorian houses.
On weekends, impromptu flea markets are often set up in a Warren Street parking lot, or uptown in the city park. The city offers over 70 antique stores; however, not all antiques in Hudson are priceless, and there is something for every budget (hudsonantiques.net has a listing of antique dealers.) Treasure hunting is a popular pastime here, and many different kinds of collectibles can be found at places like the Watnot Shop (525 Warren Street) and Carousel Antiques (611 Warren Street.)
There is more to discover beyond the city limits. Driving along the rolling hills outside Hudson, against the backdrop of the Catskills, it’s easy to see how the majestic beauty of the Hudson River Valley inspired painters like Frederic Church and Thomas Cole. The Hudson Valley itself has long attracted poets, artists and writers. Church’s Persian-style home Olana (5720 Route 9G; olana.org), about five miles outside Hudson, is part of the Great Estates Region, ten historic estates in Columbia and nearby Dutchess County that are open to the public. The Moorish architecture of Olana (from the Arabic word for "our place on high”), was influenced by Church’s Middle Eastern travels, and the villa is located atop a high hill, with sweeping views of the Hudson River and Catskill Mountains. The site offers tours and programs, and a 250 acre Church designed landscape.
From Hudson, drive up to Catskill Mountain ski areas, or head out towards the Berkshires. In nice weather, stop by the Farmers Market (corner of 6th and Columbia Streets; 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., May to November) or Olde Hudson (434 Warren Street), and pick up some supplies for picnicking on the grounds of historic sites like Olana, and Clermont (friendsofclermont.org.)
Hudson is located in Columbia County, New York, an area famous for its dairy farms and apple orchards. Pick your own apples, pumpkins, and other produce at farm stands like Love Apple Farms (1421 Route 9H, Ghent; loveapplefarm.com.) South of Hudson, view historic barns and farms along the road to charming Hudson River villages like Rhinebeck and Red Hook.
Hudson offers a number of Zagat rated restaurants, including Swoon Kitchenbar (340 Warren Street; swoonkitchenbar.com) and Red Dot (321 Warren Street.) Ca’ Mea Ristorante (333-335 Warren Street), which has a garden and is near the Opera House, features northern Italian cuisine. Baba Louie’s for wood fired pizza, (517 Warren Street; babalouiespizza.com) and Mexican Radio (537 Warren Street; mexrad.com) are filled to capacity on weekends.
Earth Foods (523 Warren Street) and Nolita Bakery Cafe (454 Warren Street) both feature sidewalk seating and are convenient for a quick bite to eat while shopping or sightseeing. A town favorite is The Spotty Dog Books & Ale (440 Warren Street; thespottydog.com), located in a converted firehouse. The eclectic Spotty Dog offers books, art supplies, a lounge, as well as refreshments like coffee and beer.
For lodgings, Hudson has a growing number of bed and breakfasts in restored buildings. The Union Street Guest House, with private guest suites in three separate buildings in the vicinity of Warren Street, is decorated with antiques (349 Union Street; unionstreetguesthouse.com; $100-$400 per suite.) The Inn at Hudson (317 Allen Street; theinnathudson.com; $100-$200/first night, $75-$100/each additional night) is located in the Morgan Jones House, one of the city’s most architecturally interesting mansions. This Dutch and Jacobean house was designed by architect Marcus Reynolds for Morgan Jones in 1903, and has been fully renovated, with rooms furnished by some of Hudson’s antique dealers. Other bed and breakfast options on Allen Street include Hudson City Bed & Breakfast (326 Allen Street; hudsoncitybnb.com; $100-$175) and The Country Squire Bed & Breakfast (251 Allen Street; countrysquireny.com; $110-$190.)
Near Olana, the elegant Mount Merino Manor (4317 Route 23; mountmerinomanor.com; $175-$375) offers views that inspired the Hudson River School painters. The Manor has a unique history as the former home of Dr. Gustavus A. Sabine, the private physician of Church’s wife Isabel; one of its luxury rooms is named “Isabel’s Parlor.” A Hudson classic is the over 100 year old St. Charles (16-18 Park Place; stcharleshotel.com; $79-$119), a newly renovated full service hotel near the city park. (For more information on where to stay, visit columbiacountylodging.com.)
The best time to visit Hudson is at the beginning or end of the week, or on weekends, as many businesses close their doors on Wednesdays. Check with hotels and B&Bs regarding minimum stays; book restaurants ahead, especially on weekends, as many have long lines and waiting times.
The Landmarks Visitor Center (547 Warren Street) is open seven days a week from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. This gift shop and visitors center offers tourism information, and gifts and merchandise from six area historic sites, including beautiful photographs, books and other items relating to Olana. Helpful resources for planning a visit to Hudson include the Columbia County Tourism Department (401 State Street; bestcountryroads.com; Weekdays 8:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.; 800-724-1846 or 518-828-3375) and the Columbia County Chamber of Commerce (507 Warren Street; columbiachamber-ny.com; 518-828-4417.)
For more information about Hudson, go to travelhudsonvalley.org.
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