Everything you’ve always wanted to know about ‘Trachten’ but were afraid to ask…
Americans almost without exception love the annual event known as ‘Oktoberfest’. It is perhaps one of the most well-known expressions of ‘traditional German culture’ that has gained acceptance in the United States. Today, almost every city in just about every state has one version or another of this most popular festival that centers on the appreciation (either in quality or quantity) of beer.
The general history of Oktoberfest is fairly well known, having begun originally as a wedding celebration for Bavaria’s Crown Prince Ludwig (later King Ludwig I) in 1810 on the occasion of his marriage to Princess Therese von Sachsen-Hildburghausen. A public entertainment was held by the Royal family for the citizens of Munich that included festivities and horse racing to mark the event. It was so thoroughly enjoyed by all that it became an annual event and continued to grow each year, eventually becoming an social occasion of great notoriety in Munich.
From its inception, the central focus of Oktoberfest quickly became secularized as a celebration of that fabulous Bavarian beer that is so well known around the world. So popular in fact that today those who are familiar with traditional German culture actually go out of their way to avoid Munich entirely from the last part of September through the first week or so of October, given that Munich becomes flooded with tourists who are more interested in getting drunk than in celebrating a hoary old Bavarian Volks tradition. The streets are not infrequently littered with hundreds upon hundreds of inebriates (mostly visiting tourists), some so far into their cups that they are passed out on the street, others wallowing in vomitus and even excrement on or near the site (the Theresienwiese, or simply ‘Wies’n, as it is known by locals). To say that millions of gallons of heady Bavarian beer are consumed at this fest is considerably understating things and it is a known fact also that foreign tourists constitute the vast majority of participants, whose knowledge of German culture verges on the near non-existent, but who have all heard of the famous ‘beer festival’ held every fall in Munich.
With American occupation of Germany at the end of the war (2WK), returning American occupation force soldiers brought back with them many fond memories of this ubiquitous southern German custom, popularizing it by an order of magnitude; who, after all, ever heard of a soldier who didn’t enjoy beer? The rest, after that, is history, and Bavaria’s famed Oktoberfest shows no signs of ever fading away…even despite the vast changes that Germany is today experiencing as the old homogenous culture drops away in the face of modern social diversity’s relentless onslaught.
However, my purpose here is not so much to focus on Oktoberfest and/or Munich’s famous beer and its unique celebratory event, but on what is called ‘Trachten’ (traditional Austrian/German dress and clothing), for more than any other style or mode of apparel seen at Oktoberfest is this ubiquitous and uniquely Austrian/south German manner of dressing. During Oktoberfest the wear of traditional clothing has become so institutionalized that any thought of Oktoberfest instantly crystalises visions of Dirndl and Lederhosen wearing couples dancing to polka music in the heads of just about anyone. Oktoberfest is, after all, the ubiquitous archetypal ‘Catholic German folk fest’ for the vast majority of the world (whether the more stuffy northern Protestant German types agree with that notion or not!).
The word ‘Trachten’ it should be noted, is generally rather broad and all-encompassing, since it includes many regional variations of dress in German-speaking Europe, but when used at Oktoberfest it refers to the unique specificities of Austria and southern Germany.
For our purposes here the word refers principally to what have become stylized and distilled presentations of traditional dress in conventional Austrian/Bavarian culture. Certainly, regional modes of traditional dress and clothing are an old, old custom, embracing a great many parts of the world, but nowhere is this more profoundly to be observed than in parts of Austria & southern Germany where enthusiasts have taken up the preservation of traditional dress styles with great enthusiasm (i.e. ‘Trachtenverein’, or ‘traditional dress associations’ for lack of a better translation).
But that is a rather complex subject area to explore simply, and for our purposes here we will focus on ‘Trachten’ as it appears at your average American Oktoberfest (which is, of course, a Bavarian festival). This generally takes form for women as a Dirndl (traditional rural maid’s dress, worn with a blouse that reveals more or less cleavage, depending upon the wearer’s intent, and perhaps a sweater) and as Lederhosen for men. There are many variations on both to be seen today at Oktoberfests, some more traditional in appearance and some a bit more ‘a la mode courant’ (stylized & updated).
Before we continue, however, let’s focus on where ‘Trachten’ originated. The following paragraphs come to us via a resident of the Salzkammergut region in Austria whose website (www.tourmycountry.com) is a fantastic resource for all things Austrian…and you must be advised here that although Bavaria’s Oktoberfest has hugely popularized traditional dress, Austria is actually the birthplace of present-day ‘Trachten’. One last (and very important) thing to remember is that although both Dirndls and Lederhosen qualify as Trachten, they are distinctly unique to southern Catholic Germany (Bavaria) and Austria (and not northern, Protestant Germany). [Sadly enough, despite efforts to learn who exactly the chap is behind ‘Tour My Country’ (in terms of a name or specific identity), I have yet to be successful in learning his actual name! The following paragraphs appear under his aegis, although he does a damnably excellent job of retaining his personal anonymity.]
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“Once upon a time in the Alps, Emperor Charlemagne was out with a hunting party consisting of some of the noblest knights in his empire. They were all dressed in valuable clothing made of fine fabrics like silk, beautifully embroidered - only the Emperor himself wore the plain clothing of a peasant.
“Charlemagne was so upset about his knight′s pretentiousness and their need to show off their wealth, that he made them ride up and down the Alps, through forests and swamps, over cliffs and mountain tops, all day long. When they finally arrived at a chateau late at night, all the noblemen were dirty, bleeding and their clothes had turned into rags. Only the Emperor was still fine and his warm coat was unharmed - made of the local Loden cloth.
“People in Austria tell this story when they want to convince you that Austrian ‘Tracht’ or traditional clothing is superior to other fashion. Historically, the rather coarse fabrics and materials that are used for Tracht - wool, linen, leather and alike - were indeed mostly worn by peasants. Nobility could afford more refined cloths, but the common people had to use materials that were durable and easy to clean. Unsurprisingly, it was indeed hunting parties that were the first to copy the style of the common people: Not only Charlemagne, but also Emperor Maximilian I was keen on ‘local wear’.
The Origins: Where Tracht is Derived from
“Until well into the 19th century, when Tracht was formalised and spread throughout Austria and Bavaria, traditional clothing was very regional. The person who wore traditional dresses, trousers or coats often expressed region of origin and social background. The regulations for this were tight - in the Middle Ages, peasants were not allowed to wear colors. Craftsmen of certain guilds in Austria would wear a particular kind of clothing, and so did students, merchants, and wealthy farmers. Imported cloth was usually limited to nobility and church. For example, farmers were allowed to wear laces only in 1730.
“In the 18th century, legal constraints in apparel design were gradually abolished. At this time, traditional patterns, techniques to dye fabrics and other means to produce new materials in ‘basic fashion design’ became both more sophisticated and accessible to lower classes. Valleys and villages developed their own styles in enormous diversity. The word ‘Tracht’ is derived from ‘tragen’ (meaning ‘to wear’) - so it was the clothing people would wear even in daily matters.
“In the early 19th century, the Age of Romanticism sparked a new interest of the nobility in folk culture. Tracht or traditional clothing suddenly became fashionable. Archduke Johann of Styria advised his tailors to include traditional styles in his coats and jackets. Once again it was hunters who learned to appreciate the rustic designs of Tracht. Johann′s nephew, Emperor Franz Joseph I, was a great hunter - and an aficionado of lederhosen and Loden jacket. He loved to spend his summers in Bad Ischl, still a centre of Tracht manufacturing.
“A ‘Sommerfrische’ vacation in the Salzkammergut, Salzburg or Tyrol became hugely fashionable in the late 19th century. The aristocracy from Vienna loved the hills and lakes and the traditional clothing. Fashion designers started to draw inspirations from traditional clothing and gave rise to ‘Trachtenmode’. At the same time, academics tried to learn more about genuinely traditional clothing by doing research in it. And soon societies for the preservation of folk culture (many of them with dubious pan-Germanic ideas) popped up (e.g. ‘Trachtenverein’).
“Two tanners of Salzburg, Josef and Johann Jahn, developed a new technique to dye lederhosen and make them look old and used. The company Jahn-Markl is still big and among the most traditional in Austria′s lederhosen industry. Other designers created new styles of the Dirndl dress. Within a few years, Tracht became socially accepted as formal wear, at least in Western Austria. Following the collapse of the Empire in 1918, both Tracht (traditional clothing) and Trachtenmode (fashion inspired by traditional clothing) were not forgotten.
“The ‘Salzburger Trachtenbuch’ and similar publications presented all the information about traditional styles. When the Salzburg Festival was first organised in 1920, traditional costumes had found a new catwalk. Many of the artists performing at the festival loved to wear Tracht ensembles. It was the 1920s that saw the rise of formalised Tracht and the establishment of ‘Tracht dynasties’ - many of the most important designers in the scene started in those days.
Current Centres for Tracht & Traditional Wear
“Today, Salzburg and the Salzkammergut are the centres of Tracht manufacturing and trade. Other regions that are big in the business are Bavaria, Tyrol, Styria and Carinthia. Authentic Tracht can cost several thousand Euros - nevertheless, dirndl dresses or lederhosen are among the favorite souvenirs from Austria. Tracht specialist boutiques occupy spots in some of the most exclusive shopping areas in Salzburg and Vienna.
“A traditional ensemble consists of a large number of items. Men usually wear a lederhosen or a pair of trousers made of Loden; a cotton or linen shirt; a Loden, linen or wool jacket; a Loden or wool coat; and a variety of accessories, from certain kinds of socks to snuff vials, daggers and schnapps hip flasks. Women wear one of two kinds of Dirndl dresses or - usually on the countryside - a skirt and jacket made of Loden.
“If you want to see proper Tracht, just take a walk through the city centre of Salzburg. If you have a deeper interest, look up the fashion shows of the big design companies - Gmachl, Lanz, Jahn-Markl and others. The best seasons are spring and autumn, when the new designs are presented, as well as the festival time in summer.
“Speaking of the Salzburg Festival: Many visitors there will wear extravagant Trachtenmoden designs. The Salzkammergut is a good hunting ground for Lederhosen. And if you would like to see traditional designs in use, go to any countryside village or town on ‘Fronleichnam’ (Corpus Christi) in June. The holiday is celebrated with a procession for which many people wear Tracht.
Tracht or Austrian Traditional Costumes: Lederhosen or Traditional Leather Trouser
“The term ‘lederhosen’ is one of many examples for Austrian or German words that made it into English - in this case, since a lederhosen is a bit of a national icon for Austria, this is particularly important and much cooler than kindergarten, stein or zwieback. The lederhosen are a pair of trousers made of leather.
“However, if you use the term in English, you would typically refer to the lederhosen of the traditional Austrian costumes or Tracht. Here they are made of suede, come with buttons made of deer horn, embroidery in traditional patterns, leather braces and accessories like a certain type of dagger, a cummerbund-like belt or snuff tins.
“Lederhosen are a common piece of clothing in Austria, Bavaria and other parts of the eastern Alps. The most important area for the production of high-end lederhosen is the Salzkammergut. Lederhosen come in two variations: A short one that ends above the knees ('Kurzlederhose') and a longer one, the ‘Kniebundhose’ that ends underneath the knee. The former one was traditionally used for hunting and working, the slightly longer Kniebundhose was a more formal one for holidays.
Features of Traditional Lederhosen
“Another feature that allows a qualification is the ‘Arschnaht’ or ‘arse seam’. North of the Alps, the Arschnaht attaches a pad of the size of a plate to the main part of the lederhosen. This style covers the most important ‘Tracht regions’ Tyrol, Bavaria, Salzburg and the Salzkammergut. South of the Alps, in Styria and Carinthia, the Arschnaht simply runs in a vertical direction and includes no actual pad.
“Historically, lederhosen were worn by farmers and peasants. Leather is very durable, easy to clean and was cheap. There were various styles usually specific to certain regions. During the age of Romanticism, aristocrats developed an interest in folk culture. In the later 19th century, vacations on the countryside during the summer became popular, and the styles in which the locals of Alpine areas dressed were incorporated into formal fashion.
“On contrast to the Dirndl dress, which became fashionable in the late 19th century only, the Lederhosen became popular in the early 19th century. A key figure in establishing the lederhosen as an acceptable piece of clothing was Erzherzog Johann, Duke of Styria. He liked to wear Tracht, consisting of lederhosen and more or less authentic costumes of linen and Loden cloth, when hunting or hiking.
Nobility makes the Lederhosen Formal Wear
“As a hunting and outdoors-style, other nobility mostly in Austria and Bavaria picked it up in the decades that followed. In Schloss Schönbrunn, for example, the imperial lederhosen of Prince Rudolf is still on display. The styles of traditional ones were picked up and altered. They were formalised in the late 19th century and not transformed since then.
“High-quality lederhosen with appropriate jackets and accessories are considered formal dress in Western Austria, similar to the kilt in Scotland. Tyrol, Salzburg and the Salzkammergut are the main centres for lederhosen aficionados and people there still wear them, even if there are not tourists around. They come in different colors and styles; the most common one is the ‘Salzburger Schwarz’ or ‘Salzburg black’ for dyed ones.
Materials Used for Making Lederhosen
“In terms of materials, there are various kinds of leather used for lederhosen. Cow leather can come in different degrees of quality, the highest would be Nappa. Chamois and deer leather are generally softer and more expensive; they are usually not dyed and come in a khaki-grey shade.
“By the way: The older and more worn your lederhosen looks, the better. In that respect they are a bit like a Barbour jacket [Note: a traditional British motorcycle protective jacket made from oiled canvas] - if a lederhosen looks perfectly new (meaning, with no shiny or worn parts), you stink of new money. Speaking of money: A really good Salzkammergut lederhosen is always custom made and can cost several hundred Euros. It pays back, however, as it is meant to last for a lifetime and can be repaired. However, you will have to wait for weeks or even months until it will finally be delivered.”
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And now (to resume my own narrative), thanks to www.tourmycountry.com and the above, you know far more about the sort of apparel people at Oktoberfests are prancing around in than most!
In recent years, interest in Austrian/Bavarian Trachten has taken off substantially and there is consequently a considerable interest on the part of many to obtain and wear suitably ‘authentic’ Oktoberfest Trachten at such events, both in the German speaking European countries and in the United States.
As might be imagined, that interest has sparked a commercial response by companies who tailor and manufacture Trachten and today a great number of venues offer and sell Trachten items for men, women and children. Children in particular look very cute in miniature Lederhosen & Dirndl sets, although the modern ‘conventionalised’ adult counterparts impart a surprisingly appealing appearance to mature individuals as well. [‘Lederhosen’ readily translates to ‘Leather pants’, while ‘Dirndl’ is a contraction of ‘Dirndlgewand’, or ‘maid’s dress’, a simple style that gained great favor for its uncomplicated country appeal). The Dirndl naturally emphasizes the bust, which adds to its popularity with those suitably endowed.]
Given Steirmark’s influence (Erzerzog Johann, Duke of Styria) on the 18th century popular rise of Trachten, the most ubiquitous Trachten style is generally recognised as that relating to Austria’s Steirmark and it is no accident that some of the most appealing Trachten styles for casual wear bear a relationship to that part of Austria. During Emperor Franz Josef’s monarchy the popularity of wearing of Tracht further gained immeasurably, given his preference for those traditional modes of dress for everyday use.
As far as Lederhosen are concerned, the tanning of animal hides for clothing goes back many, many centuries, of course…almost to the dawn of recorded history. In Austria and southern Germany the first mention of this as a specialized craft performed by artisans arises in literature of the 13th century, but by then leather was already used in a great number of applications, lending itself equally as well for functional, utilitarian items as for clothing. The creation of leather wearing apparel quickly became a specialized guild craft, with only members of the various leather-working guilds being permitted (by royal decree) to produce leather wear.
Traditionally, pants for men were first generally made in two lengths, ending just above or below the knee and were made from cow or horsehide; leather stockings that had originally been tied to the short or long leather pants by peasant wearers (with buttons, ribbons or thin leather straps) eventually gave way to fabric stockings for convenience, and the buttons or straps that now appear on the legs of Lederhosen have become strictly ornamental. Garments such as this were tough, durable and withstood hard, regular use on farms and in villages.
With the rise of interest in traditional Trachten in the late early 19th century, as clothing made in this manner became trendy among the wealthier classes (by Royal example), the use of more exotic types of leather came into use, including deer, mountain goat (Chamois) and softer skins, and of course the cost went up proportionately.
It should be noted that before the higher Bavarian/Austrian classes ‘rediscovered’ Tracht, such items of apparel were normally worn only by rural villagers and hunters, who, when moving to the cities, ceased wearing such things in deference to sophisticated city styles. It was only later, at the turn of the century (1880-1900) that the southern Germans and Austrians began to worry that their traditions were dying off in the new industrial age, with the result that societies dedicated to preserving the customs (‘Trachtenverein’) originated.
Due to the two devastating wars it was engaged in, Germany as a nation has suffered a number of complexes about its ancient traditions, owing mostly to the fact that anything ‘German’ has been automatically linked to Hitler and the Third Reich in American minds (thanks largely to Jewish & Zionist activists and individuals like the recently demised Holocaust hagiographer Ellie Weisel, who will never let the world forget their victimization at the hands of the Germans). In the immediate post-war period, younger people were understandably anxious about such traditions and less willing to regard tradition positively. More recently, as younger generations have grown up, as the Holocaust myth-makers die off and as Germany as a ‘reemerged’ nation has grown in stature as a ‘balanced’, equitable society, Germans are a justifiably a bit less hesitant to preserve and enjoy some of these traditional customs.
Today, formerly ‘quaint’ and ‘old fashioned’ Tracht have again been rediscovered by the younger generations who think it is cool (further proof that life progresses in a circular manner, wherein the old becomes ‘new’ again) and who do not automatically attach adverse significance to the customs, with the result that a new surge of popularity and pride in these traditional modes of apparel has grown up, world-wide.
Since I am of the male persuasion, knowing more about male Tracht than that of women, I should make a few remarks on what anyone (men) wishing to wear Tracht should consider before setting forth at an Oktoberfest.
Most basic are the Lederhosen themselves. Normally the shorter, above-the-knee variety (‘Kurzlederhosen’) are considered more casual than the longer below-the-knee type (‘Kniebunden’), although both types may be worn with equal ease at Oktoberfest. Lederhosen of both lengths are available in several different types of animal hide. Cowhide is most common and cheaper. Finer skins, such as those of Chamois and deer are more expensive. Obviously, hand-made and hand sewn/stitched are more costly (a specialty of the oldest, most reputable craftsmen, such as are still found in Salzburg), but good quality machine-stitched Lederhosen may be obtained at a far more reasonable cost. The past several years have seen a couple of US-based retailers who offer reasonably good Lederhosen & accessories at reasonable cost, but the best (among these, Meindel and Jahn Markel) will always come from Austria (particularly from the Salzburg and Salzkammergut areas) & Bavaria (Berchtesgaden), and can command prices of several thousand Euros!
Lederhosen of both lengths are invariably worn with special leather suspenders called ‘Ledertrager’ and originally Lederhosen were not worn with modern style belts (no belt loops); nowadays, wearing conventional belts with Lederhosen has become popularized to some extent and most modern-made Lederhosen will come with belt-loops. It should be noted that the more aged, worn and beaten-up the Lederhosen appear, the more highly esteemed they are. This has resulted in a modern technique to make new leather appear to be aged and worn; most of this modern ‘aged’ type actually look quite authentic, too. Various styles of decorative stitching complement lederhosen, typically, and black-dyed Lederhosen are usually associated with today’s ‘Schuhplattler’ (dance) groups, although they may also be worn by anyone…dancer or not. For the small knife pocket on the right side leg, a traditional hunter’s knife is in order. Many are available, the most popular having a handle made from a section of deer’s antler. Cleverly, though, some retailers offer a deer-horn-handled beer bottle opener (or comb) that may be used in that pocket, instead.
Stockings worn with short Lederhosen are called ‘Lofferl’ and generally consist of two parts: a truncated foot-sock worn in the shoe and a mid-thigh (not attached) section worn on the mid-calf. They are available in a variety of colors and patterns, but those in white with green patterns are considered most preferable. Full length stockings may be worn with both lengths of Lederhosen and come in red, gray, white and brown colors (typically), but they are best worn with the below-the-knee Lederhosen.
Shoes typically worn with Lederhosen are called ‘Hafferl’ and consist of low-quarter shoes that have side-lacing. Most have a Vibram type sole, but many come with one-piece softer soles as well. Generally brown shoe shades are worn with brown Lederhosen and black shoes are worn with black (‘Schuhplatter’ style) Lederhosen. These are usually about $130 or so, but regular low-quarter street shoes may be used, if desired (no sneakers or running shoes, however!).
Shirts (called ‘Wanderhemd’ or ‘Trachtenhemd’) worn with Lederhosen are most often found in conventional (tailored) style, with a collar, and in a variety of checked colors, but originally they were simply cut, white and with a collar-less neck. Less commonly, old-fashioned peasant style collar-less white Trachtenhemd may be found with full-cut sleeves, but an effective substitute (I have found) for this look are the old-fashioned white Western style collar-less shirts sold by the Scully Company; made mainly for Rodeo and ‘Old West’ reenactor use, they are a dead-ringer for the old German peasant shirts worn in the 1800s and look very convincing!
No Oktoberfest outfit is complete without an Austrian/Bavarian Trachtenhut (hat), naturally, and these are widely available from many sources on-line. It really doesn’t matter what style you get since most are fairly identical. Truly old-style regional Trachten hats are not often seen at Oktoberfests and are more characteristic of distinctive regional dress. It is a custom to add various pins and badges of an alpine nature to these hats, along with small bird feather plumes and ‘Gamsbart’ (ornamental brushes made from animal hair; the word literally translates to ‘mountain-goat beard’), although small flowers and tree leaf branches are also used, depending upon the wearer’s requirement.
Another item of apparel commonly worn is a waistcoat or vest that is fabric in front and synthetic fibre (Nylon) in back. These are available in many colors and several styles, but most often are worn in forest green (Loden). With the vest may be worn a silver chain to which perhaps a watch and/or various small charms & coins are attached. This is called a ‘Charivari’. They are also easy to find at Trachten retailers.
Finally, if desired, a jacket may be worn with the outfit that is called a ‘Trachtenjacke’. These are made after the traditional Austrian/Bavarian style and are available in fabric (cloth, linen, wool), or in leather (‘Lederjacke’). These jackets feature buttons made from bone, a small belted back, may have collars buttoned back in true traditional style and can be trimmed in contrasting green Loden.
My advice? Try to avoid anything sold on-line that is described as ‘an Oktoberfest costume’, as these are without exception wretchedly made, absolutely comical in effect and about as authentic as Hillary Clinton’s ethics (not!). I have seen more than my share of these at Oktoberfests, worn by total naifs and the thought of some of them make me cringe.
However…all that said, the main thing is to relax and have fun at any Oktoberfest. Besides, after the first liter of good German beer, nothing much matters anymore, anyway. For the MOST fun, try to learn a few words of German, perhaps the refrain from ‘In Munchen steht ein Hofbrauhaus’ (‘Eins, Zwoa, Drei…G’suffa!’...that’s in Bavarian dialect) and try very, very hard not to embarrass yourself in public after too many liters of that good, golden Bavarian brew!
People have as many reasons for going to Oktoberfest as Hillary Clinton has for her ‘oversights’, and you’ll find some (like me) who have Austrian roots, ancestors and heritage, some who just like to drink good beer and a number who unfortunately don’t know how to keep themselves under control at such time, behaviorally speaking. The original Munich Oktoberfest is today generally known as the world’s best party and there’s no disputing that it is usually a wild & crazy venue to visit…once. American Oktoberfests are generally a lot quieter, less rowdy and far more contained, but be prepared for anything!
Sehr besten Wünsche für Sie, Ihre Familie und Ihre Lieben für eine glückliche und fröhliche Oktoberfest !
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One last Post Script: It would be unfair and completely derelict to not mention the ultimate Lederhosen source to be found anywhere and that would have to be 'Lederhosen Wahnsinn' in Munich. This wonderfully bizarre and eclectic little slice of Munchen eccentricity contains literally thousands of perfectly aged old used Lederhosen. You can find anything imaginable in the way of traditional German Lederhosen here and if lucky, you might even run into its owner, Herbert Lipah, who has to be the last of a dying breed of Wandervogel. Next time you find yourself in Munich do drop in on Lederhosen Wahnsinn (this translates directly to 'Lederhosen Madness'). More on Herbert and Lederhosen Wahsinn may be found here.
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