Even though Santiago sits at the foot of the highest and more dramatic sector of the Andes, summer time visitors tend to ignore the spectacular opportunity to see some incredible scenery with little effort from their part.
The Cajon del Maipo is a deep valley that penetrates right into the heart of the Andes. It has a good road that takes you close to the foot of Volcan San Jose. It is so easy to reach that you can do it by city bus.
If you want a bit more comfort, you can rent a car.
The bus (Blue, number 72) leaves the Metro station Bellavista in La Florida at 8:30 with destination Banos Morales.. During high season this a daily departure, off season, it runs Saturdays and Sundays.
I chose a Sunday in March and went to the bus stop in Puente Alto by Metro. The bus came by at 09:20, I climbed in paid 3,000 pesos (A little over USD 5.00) and was on my way.
Shortly after, we entered the canyon. Flanked by summer homes and barbeque restaurants, the road immediately takes an aspect of relaxed living. Steep reddish slopes covered with brush and trees rise to what seem incredible heights. This is what they call the contrafuertes de la cordillera (the foothills).
A bit over half an hour and the bus arrives in San Jose the Maipo, a charming provincial town where the bus makes a welcome pit-stop. This is a good place to grab a sandwich if you have missed breakfast.
It is worth mentioning now, that there are lots of lodging places along the road and leisure activities found before reaching the village of San Gabriel. Whitewater rafting is one of the most popular.
After San Jose de Maipo, the mountains become higher, steeper, the river below, more turbulent. Torreones, is a formation of red rock that resembles an ancient fortress.
Leaving San Gabriel the pavement ends and the bus continues on a gravel road, often climbing at steep angles. Though, you still see some trees in the valley, the slopes become bare of vegetation. Waterfalls drop into the rock strewn bottom of el Cajon.
The valley becomes wider and the snow-capped San Jose Volcano comes into view.
Perched on the side of the valley, the village of Banos Morales is the end of the bus line.
The baths here are not hot but are said to be salubrious. There are a couple of small inns. If one has a car or one can contract a local tour operator to take you further to Banos Colina where the water temperature is higher.
The bus leaves for the return to Santiago at 6:00 PM.
This is the most spectacular city bus ride I know of. An amazing trip that will impress the most jaded traveler.
Novelist Alexey Braguine is the author of Kingmaker, an espionage thriller
