Recent movies like Riding Giants and Step into Liquid link surfing to death-defying heroics. Good for those guys. But merging with the surf can be as simple as it is simply, unexplainably profound, just you and a very personal union with nature. No equipment needed.

Peninsula Beach

Baloon tires hissing
Down the sandy sidewalk,
Sea breeze on my shoulder,
Find the break,
Dump the bike
Drop the towel
Shuck the slippers
And plunge into chill surf.
On that first crest,
Sliding into the trough,
Freedom defines itself.

-Charlie Neff