No corny joke,the “johnnycake”—cornmeal flatbread-- was an Early American food staple. Dough consisting of cornmeal, salt, and water was set on a wooden board or barrel stave in front of an open fire to bake. Historically dry, our forefathers could have used a cup of British tea, hitherto dumped into the Boston Harbor, to wash ‘em down.
Johnnycakes, one of Rhode Island’s historical indigenous foods, are best served at breakfast as a solo entry or as a companion to sausage or bacon ‘n eggs. During the state’s colonial Yankee yesteryear the dough mix of cornmeal, salt, and water was seldom sweetened with sugar which was too costly and in short supply.
Little Rhody’s modern johnnycake is fried cornmeal gruel, made from yellow or white cornmeal, mixed with salt and hot water or milk, and lightly sweetened. Post colonial johnnycakes are served with maple syrup or honey, though purists protest this revolutionary act.
Road warriors will want to note that our culinary celebration of May Day held in church halls across the state replete with hearty breakfast fare such as fried and scrambled eggs, sausage and ham--typically includes johnnycakes in the southern part of Rhode Island.
In fact, the Kenyon Corn Meal Company, a gristmill whose company history dates back to the early 1700s, is located in Usquepaugh of these southern parts. Having ground johnnycake cornmeal for centuries, these millers exonerate the expression “back to the old grind.”
A 16 oz. box of Kenyon’s Johnnycake Corn Meal, a white stone ground mix, may be purchased at local supermarkets. Like our forefathers, you can become a true Patriot, Yankee Doodling a johnnycake recipe found in 'Yankee Magazine,' calling for these ingredients:
1 cup Kenyon’s Johnnycake Meal
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
Boiling water
Milk
Combine first three ingredients. Pour boiling water over mixture very slowly, adding just enough to swell the meal. Let it sit several minutes, and then add enough milk so mixture will drop from a spoon. Heat greased pancake griddle or iron skillet and spoon batter onto hot surface. Turn to brown other side. Serve with maple syrup and butter.
Rhode Islanders and out-of-town roadies who prefer to lift a fork sitting at a counter or booth may frequent one of the rare local restaurants serving up johnnycakes, thick or thin--such as:
J.P. Spoonem’s on 1678 Broad St., Cranston-- maple flavored johnnycakes, their specialty; for an interesting twist, the Johnnycake Platter features a slice of hand-carved ham between two johnnycakes topped with melted Swiss cheese, along with hash browns and spiced apples on the side.
Hurrah for johnnycakes, dandy Yankee flatbread hot off the griddle of colonial history. One by land or two by sea, johnnycakes are worth the ride to any dives that serve 'em.
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