This surfer is hanging in mid-air,
Thrown off his board, given a scare,
I have never seen a wave that big,
Almost off the bottom he had to himself dig…
Sure and I am thought to be crazy,
To wish it were me hanging there,
But to whatever deity you or I pray,
To have been given the chance for that ride,
Would be a place I would die for to stay…
Big waves roll onto Jersey beaches,
Mostly after or during nor’easter storms,
I guess I have surfed some ten to twelve footers,
And remember being thrown off my board,
But never was I ever on those beautiful waves, bored.
© -ed- 12/18/19
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Love ya!
Jane
My one experience body surfing with a little plastic inflatable at Santa Cruz where the water was about 55° bone numbing and the air on a sunny day only 70°, I gave it my best try to catch a wave that were about 5 feet at the time. Between shivering on the beach for some time trying to warm up in the sun, and then going out into the frigid water trying again, I finally caught a wave and found myself being propelled directly into the sand below where I ate some and then had the wave wash over me like I was in a putrid sewer pipe, the saltwater was so bad.
And then there was that day in December on the point at Santa Cruz where I saw a deep tanned girl in a bikini surfing for hours with others in wetsuits and wondering what kind of body chemistry she had that could overcome all that cold. Got her picture. Will send it to you.
Ron
Rebecca
Regis. 🌲🌳🌴🌵🍁